Make your own trike headrest

 

    Making your own Headrest:

    I made headrests for my ICE QNT as well as for my first trike. The procedure is really simple if you have mesh seats:

    1. Measure the outer diameter of the trike's seat posts. On both of my trikes this was one inch
    2. Purchase two feet of 1" inner diameter irrigation tubing (or whatever size is closest to your needs). Make sure you get thickest wall tubing you can find. The wall should be thick enough that you really have to work at bending the two foot length - about $3.00 worth.
    3. Remove the top half of the seat mesh, exposing the bare aluminum seat posts.
    4. Place one end of the tubing over the end of the seat post. Use liquid soap to slide it on - it should be really snug. Temporarily wrap some duct tape around it to hold it onto the seat post in preparation for the next step.
    5. Sit on the trike. Put your helmet on. Have your assistant bend the other end near, but not onto, the other seat post. Have her move it up and down beside the post while you tilt your head back. The correct length of tubing will be when the back of the base of your helmet contacts the tubing such that your head can rest comfortably. Have your assistant mark this length.
    6. Remove the tubing from the seat post. Cut the tubing to the correct length from the previous step.
    7. Now, the rake of the headrest (the amount it deviates from the perpendicular) is important for comfort. The correct rake should be just enough to completely clear your helmet while riding, but be upright enough to stop the head in case of whiplash. Rake is controlled by cutting both ends of the tubing at a slight angle. The way I did this was to cut about 10 degrees, put the tubing on the trike's seatposts, sit on trike wearing my helmet, and try it. After some experimentation, I found that about 16 degrees of rake worked for my body. YMMV. Take your time and experiment with rake until you find what works for you.
    8. When you are satisfied, push the tubing onto the seat posts (use liquid soap inside the tube ends to make the job easier). When the soap has dried (after 24 hours or so), wrap electrical tape very tightly around the seat posts and the tubing. Then put the mesh back over things to hide the wrapping. This set up is very strong - I can lift the weight of the trike by the headrest without any problem.
    9. Wrap some foam (look at the picture) around the middle of the headrest for comfort.
    10. On the top of the headrest opposite the foam, I added a bright red flashing light. I can reach it while seated to turn it on or off, but since it is behind my head when riding, I do not see it. Highly visible from behind and at the same hight as my head.

    At the end of this simple process you should have a very comfortable lightweight but strong headrest, which is completely out of the way when riding yet provides a comfortable rest whenever you want it. It should also prevent any chance of whiplash. The tubing is sufficiently flexible to have a little give if suddenly struck by the head - exactly as a car's headrest is designed to do. You can also get out and push the trike by the headrest if you want to, say up a steep climb on slippery gravel. Have fun. 

     

    Update:  I added a small diameter bit of irrigation tubing about 15" long to the back left of the headrest. It attaches vertically to the headreast and to the highest metal horizontal bar of the seatback. The top end is open, but I sealed the bottom end with some silicone glue. This makes a perfect flag holder. I chose a diameter just slightly larger than the flag pole (a snug fit). Now I can just lift the flagpole out when I bring the trike in the house, and jam it back it when I go for a ride. Works very well. Total cost: $0.50.